Domaine du Collier, Saumur Blanc 2017
Compared with the powerful 2016 wines, the 2017 vintage has given sleekness and sapid depth. That it is a wine from grapes grown in stone and then aged in a stone cellar is evident - this is totally crystalline, seemingly hewn purely from the stones that lie in the ground from which it comes - floating on top as usual is the entrancing citrus and floral perfume. In 2017 there is again great freshness and clarity - it has real presence and drive the finish is chiselled in the mouth displaying cut and salinity alongside powerful tension - it finishes with the sort of gravitas to make you ponder. Mouthwatering acidity, a fine substance, a vivacious finish - there is greatness here.